On the Prinsengracht, one of Amsterdam’s main canals, cozily hidden behind sheets of trailing ivy, is Bolhoed, a vegan friendly, vegetarian café, staffed by the be-dreaded and tattoed, decorated with knick-knacks your Gran would covet and serving absolutely delicious food in delightfully generous portions.
Since there’s nothing outwardly declaring it to be a café we would have walked right past, if it hadn’t been for the outdoor seating area and my penchant for staring into other people’s houses (which is how Kat and Lia found it later as well. Staring questioningly into windows is a part of the Amsterdam experience though…) It looked inviting enough, for a start the windows are painted with flowers and the odd cartoon person, and inside beckoned warmly to our soaken selves.
Inside, it’s more like a café than a house, but only just. The odd knick-knacks, leaf stencils and cat might have you confused for a moment, but the counter with salad bar, coffee machine and customers soon give it away. We trundled in and bagsed the only free table. It wasn’t particularly busy, nevertheless. The other, huge, wooden tables were all occupied by one or two coffee drinking book readers or ladies-what-lunch. Most people in there were of an age, but then it was mid-morning on a Tuesday. By all accounts it’s buzzin’ on the weekend, but while we were there the atmosphere was pretty calm and chilled out.
We made ourselves comfortable, hanging our wet jackets over the chairs, and perused the menu. Everything is vegetarian, with plenty of vegan options also. I don’t remember most of what they offered because it seemed pretty standard fare; nut roast, sandiwiches, but the ragoutcroissant really stood out. I was completely intrigued by the notion of a croissant containing anything other than chocolate – in this case, leek, seaweed, tofu and curry – that it had to be ordered.
The food did take a little while to come but it’s not as though we had any pressing engagements anywhere and I was too busy enthusing over the ‘real’ apple juice – thick, cloudy and sweet, the kind which fights off infections and Fascists – and trying to get a perfect picture of the cool twisted-wire tree hanging on the wall to count the minutes off.
When my dinner did arrive though, it would have been worth any wait. It was giant. A giant parcel of folded pastry covered in sesame seeds, which I cut into eagerly. Inside was green mush, my favourite!, with chunks of tofu. I gingerly forked some into my mouth, where the pastry practically melted on my tongue and then the curry had a party with the seaweed. Everyone at the table tried a little bit, then clamoured for more. The side salad was also way more than the usual slice of cucumer and sprinkle of cress, so much so that I thought they were going to try and charge me extra. Not so! They just give you looooads of salad. My friends ordered a salad on its ownsome and were presented with salad, and skewers and a massive dollop of cous-cous. All for the low low price of roughly six euro, same as mine. (Since I’d read that the place was dear, and we were in Amsterdam, I’d expected far higher prices.)
Bolhoed is a really charming little place, which I highly recommend for good tasty filling food and veg. According to other sources it can get quite busy on the weekends – and I can see why – so the advice is to book ahead. If you have the choice though, go mid-week, either with a paper or close friend, hang out and take your sweet time devouring the giant croissant. Nom nom nom.